🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.